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Bluehead Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura)

Bluehead Fairy Wrasse

Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura
Family
Wrasse
Care level
Beginner
Temperament
Peaceful
Reef safe
Reef safe
Max size
13 cm
Min tank
250 L · 66 gal
Origin
Indo-West Pacific
Diet
Carnivore
Food
Mysis, Enriched brine, Mixed frozen, Marine pellets, Flake

Overview

The Bluehead Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura) — also sold as the Blue-sided, Yellowflanked or Purplehead Fairy Wrasse — is one of the most affordable and rewarding fairy wrasses in the hobby. Males wear a reddish-maroon body washed with electric blue across the head and flanks over a pale belly, while females and younger fish are a more uniform maroon. Colour varies a lot with locale, age and mood, flaring to its most intense when a male is displaying — so no two are quite alike.

Found right across the Indo-West Pacific, including our own Great Barrier Reef, it's a chunky, robust fairy wrasse that's hardy and forgiving.

Active, colourful and constantly on the move, it's a brilliant, budget-friendly splash of movement for a reef — and a great introduction to the fairy wrasses for anyone who can meet its two simple must-haves: frequent feeding and a tightly covered tank.

Compatibility

Toward unrelated tankmates the Bluehead is an easygoing, peaceful community fish that mixes well with anthias, chromis, cardinals, clownfish, gobies and similar species. It's a larger, bolder fairy wrasse than some, though, and that's where the caveats come in: males can be scrappy toward other wrasses, particularly other fairy wrasses and smaller, timid wrasse species.

Keep one male per tank as the safe default. If you can reliably sex them, a single male with a few females works well, and in a large system this naturally shoaling fish can be kept in a group added together. If you want to mix it with other Cirrhilabrus, introduce them all at once. Avoid large, aggressive or predatory fish that could bully or eat this relatively gentle swimmer.

Health & quarantine

The Bluehead Fairy Wrasse is a hardy, forgiving fish and one of the easier wrasses to keep, which makes it a good choice for less experienced reefers. A quiet quarantine period and a slow acclimation are still worthwhile to confirm strong feeding before it joins the display, and it settles fastest in a mature tank with plenty of live rock. Two practical points make the biggest difference to its wellbeing: give it a sandbed to sleep in, as fairy wrasses burrow into the sand or wedge into the rocks inside a mucus cocoon at night, and provide a tight-fitting lid — these are champion jumpers and an open tank is the most common cause of avoidable losses.

Frequently asked questions

Do I really need a lid?
Yes — a tight-fitting lid or mesh screen is non-negotiable. Fairy wrasses are notorious jumpers, especially while settling in or if startled, and the vast majority of losses come from an open or poorly covered tank. Cover gaps around the overflow and returns too.
Is it reef safe?
Yes. It won't touch corals or sessile invertebrates. The only minor caveat is that it may hunt very small ornamental shrimp and tiny crustaceans, so treat delicate cleaner-shrimp babies or a pod-focused tank with a little caution.
Can I keep more than one, or mix it with other wrasses?
Keep one male per tank. A single male with several females works well, and a group can be kept in a large system if added together. Be cautious pairing it with other fairy wrasses or smaller, timid wrasses, as males can be territorial — mix Cirrhilabrus only when introduced simultaneously.
Why does it disappear at night?
That's completely normal. Fairy wrasses bury into the sandbed or tuck into the rocks and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to sleep, then reappear when the lights come on. It's why a sandbed matters — on a bare-bottom tank, provide a container of sand for it to bed down in.
Is it a good beginner fish?
One of the best fairy wrasses for newcomers — it's hardy, affordable and adapts readily to aquarium life. Get the two essentials right (frequent feeding and a secure lid) and it's a very forgiving, rewarding reef fish.
Will the male keep his bright colours?
Colour intensity varies with mood, diet and whether there's an audience. A vitamin-rich diet and the presence of females help a male hold and flash his best blues; a lone or underfed fish tends to look more subdued day to day. Colour also varies naturally between collection locations.

Care guidance is drawn from our own experience — every fish is an individual, so treat it as a starting point, not a guarantee. Not sure if a species suits your tank? Come ask us in store. New to the terms? Read the care-terms glossary.